All tier lists

Power Supply Tier List: which wattage for which graphics card

Last reviewed: 31 August 2026

The power supply is the component where saving money costs the most. This tier list sorts units by the graphics card they can feed continuously without shutdowns – not by the sticker on the box.

Modern graphics cards don't draw power evenly but in very short spikes that can briefly exceed their rated figure by a factor of two. A supply that is sufficient on paper therefore still shuts down – usually mid-game and without any error message. That pattern is behind most seemingly unexplainable restarts after a graphics card upgrade.

Two specifications decide whether a unit copes: compliance with the ATX 3.1 standard, which explicitly covers short load spikes, and the quality of the 12 V rail. The efficiency badge says almost nothing about stability – it only describes how much energy is lost as heat. A bronze unit from a good manufacturer is more dependable than a gold model from the cheapest production line.

1000 W and above – top-tier graphics cards

from roughly €180

Corsair RM1000x (2024)

The straightforward standard for systems with an RTX 4090 or 5090: ATX 3.1, a native 12V-2x6 cable and a fan that stays still in everyday use. What matters is that the connector on the card is fully seated – a half-seated contact, not the supply's output, is the most common cause of melted connectors.

Best for: RTX 4090/5090, overclocking, many drives

be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000W

The quietest option in this class and therefore sensible for workstations that render continuously. Slightly pricier than comparable units, but with excellent voltage stability under fluctuating load.

Best for: Quiet high-end systems, workstations

750–850 W – high-end cards and strong processors

roughly €110–160

Corsair RM850e (ATX 3.1)

Currently the most sensible buy for a system with an RTX 5070 Ti, RX 9070 XT or 5080. 850 W leaves enough headroom for load spikes and a later graphics card upgrade. Mind the naming: the older revision without the ATX 3.1 marking is not equivalent.

Best for: RTX 5070 Ti to 5080, later upgrades

Seasonic Focus GX-850

A classic with a very long warranty and a proven platform. Its fan spins up earlier than the quietest rivals, which keeps the electronics cooler. A good choice when longevity outranks noise.

Best for: Long-lived new builds

be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 750W

The cheapest unit that fully meets ATX 3.1. Adequately sized for a mid-range to upper-mid-range card with a processor up to around 150 W. If you plan to move to a 300 W card later, go straight to 850 W.

Best for: 1440p systems with a mid-range card

550–650 W – mid-range and frugal systems

roughly €70–100

be quiet! System Power 10 650W

The sensible basis for a system with an RTX 5060 Ti or RX 9060 XT. 650 W looks generous but is the point at which load spikes are safely covered without overpaying. No cable management – slightly awkward to route in small cases.

Best for: Mid-range 1080p/1440p systems

Corsair RM550x

For frugal systems with cards up to around 180 W this is the highest-quality solution: fully modular, practically silent and with ample 12 V headroom. The best pick for compact living-room PCs.

Best for: Compact and quiet systems

Avoid – when replacement is mandatory

—

Unbranded units (bundled with a case)

Bundled supplies of unknown origin often quote an output they can only deliver briefly and at low temperature. Replace before any graphics card upgrade – a failure routinely takes other components with it.

Best for: Nothing – replace it

Branded units older than roughly eight years

Even good supplies age: capacitors lose capacity and voltages get noisier. A ten-year-old 600 W model behaves more like a 450 W unit today and can no longer handle the load spikes of modern cards.

Best for: Plan a replacement

As a rule of thumb: add the rated draw of graphics card and processor, add 150 W for the rest of the system and round up to the next class. More important than any extra watt, though, is that the unit meets ATX 3.1 and feeds the card through a native cable rather than an adapter.

Frequently asked questions

How many watts do I need for a 300 W card?

750 to 850 W is the safe choice once an upper-tier processor joins it. On paper 650 W would suffice, but the short load spikes of modern cards routinely trip the protection circuit on a tightly sized unit.

Is an 80 Plus Gold badge a mark of quality?

Only partly. It describes efficiency, meaning heat loss, not voltage stability. ATX 3.1 compliance, warranty length and the manufacturer of the underlying platform tell you far more.

Can I use the bundled adapter for the 12V-2x6 connector?

Better not. Adapters merge several older connectors and add extra contact points. A supply with a native cable is clearly the safer solution – and effectively mandatory for cards from 300 W upward.

Does this fit your system?

The AI analysis checks your real configuration – including RAM, PSU and cooling – and names the tier that actually fits you.

Analyze my PC for free